The More, the Merrier

Shhh. Listen.

It’s a train whistle—low and long and lonely and romantic. It’s a sound that for 150 years has permeated the Pineywoods town of Palestine.

But the whistle heard December 31, 1969, was thought to be the last. That day, Texas South-Eastern Railroad engine No. 22, a 70-ton diesel-electric locomotive, pulled into the station for the last time—the end of a century of regular freight and passenger service in Palestine.

But listen closely today along the 25-mile track between Palestine and Rusk, to the east, and you’ll hear plenty of whistles and maybe even singing, laughter and bells. If you catch a glimpse into a passing train car, you’ll see families in matching pajamas, dancing chefs and trays full of hot chocolate.

Ever since the Palestine-Rusk line reopened as a tourist railway called the Texas State Railroad on June 25, 1976, it has been building a corps of believers. Tens of thousands of them turn out each holiday season for the service’s wildly popular Polar Express trips based on the film released in 2004 and the 1985 book by Chris Van Allsburg.

“With the popularity of the film, the Polar Express Train Ride has just grown and grown,” says Amy Parady, president of the Texas State Railroad, which launched round-trip Christmas-themed excursions 20 years ago. “Many have made a tradition out of the event, so they come every year.”

Like the Corley family from Magnolia.

“We meet new people and sit with different families,” Kevin Corley says. “It’s very interactive. We’ve never had a bad experience.”

Long before it whisked families to the “North Pole,” Palestine began its golden age after the Civil War when the International Railroad and the Houston and Great Northern Railroad opened a route between Hearne and Palestine. The transport of goods and passengers resulted in great wealth, allowing merchants and railroad executives to build massive mansions, especially in Palestine.

In 1881, when a prison was built in Rusk, the line was extended to the east. Shortly thereafter, the Palestine car shop was built to modify and repair freight cars. In 1971, not long after shipments of logging and mining equipment and passengers ceased, local banker Jack R. Stone, a member of the Texas Parks and Wildlife Commission, and Rusk Mayor Emmett H. Whitehead led a campaign to reopen the railroad as a tourist attraction, and the Texas State Railroad was born.

A $3 million appropriation went into refurbishing the rails, and Rusk and Palestine built support facilities such as campsites before the two depots were built. The line has been operated by private companies since 2007.

About half of the passenger cars are commuter coaches built in 1923 for other railroads; they’re pulled by an assortment of vintage diesel- and steam-powered locomotives.

The railroad hosts a variety of excursions throughout the year. There’s Rockin’ the Rails, in which passengers attend a concert; the Rusk Turntable Run, which makes use of the 130-year-old, compressed air-powered railcar turntable in Maydelle; and Mother’s Day and Father’s Day trips. There are autumn- and Halloween-themed trains, dinner excursions, and trips that celebrate local beer and wine.

But far and away the most popular themed ride is the Polar Express.

“We always have multiple [marriage] proposals and engagements during every season, which is always special,” Parady says. “We have had grown individuals who have never seen Santa before, and just to watch the grandparents and parents see the joy in the eyes of the children creates magic every year.”

The cars are festooned inside with greenery and twinkling lights, and outside, along the route to the North Pole—did you know it’s in Rusk?—Christmas decorations whiz past the windows.

Passengers are encouraged to bring a copy of the book or buy one at the depot, and once aboard, they’re served hot chocolate and cookies by dancing chefs who act out various scenes. On arrival at the North Pole, passengers are greeted by Santa and his elves, who bestow the first gift of Christmas: a silver sleigh bell that can only be heard by believers. The chefs lead passengers in Christmas carols on the return trip.

But the experience changes each year. Employees gather to discuss and workshop new ideas and improvements.

An adults-only railcar has club chairs. There’s an open-air car with bench seats, an observation dome car, and another with tables and sofas. There’s even a car that can be booked for private parties. The cars have the feel of a long-ago time because of the original fixtures retained throughout.

It all makes for a special experience.

“We have a family that started coming the first year we did the Polar Express train ride, and their son was 4 years old,” Parady says. “They have never missed a year, and now their son is 22 years old.”

Logistically, Polar Express season requires careful orchestration. Within a six-week time frame in November and December, there are typically 105–110 round trips with as many as five trains running a day for 60,000–70,000 passengers. Reservations open in July at texasstaterailroad.net.

“We hire typically 150 additional team members just for our Polar season,” Parady says. “It is quite a feat pulling this event off with the ridership we have in such a short time frame.”

Performers on the Polar Express have a reputation for the joy and professionalism they bring to the job, making it no wonder that passengers return year after year—and get into the spirit.

“About 95% of our visitors always arrive in matching pajamas,” Parady says. “We have had people plan their family reunions around our event. We have multigenerational attendees, meaning great-grandparents, grandparents, parents and children all attending together. Families have become extremely creative with their attire, and many customize their pajamas or even make their own.”

The Corley family has made the Polar Express a tradition. Kelly and Kevin Corley and their children, Piper and Carter, have been attending since 2015. “We read the book and watch the film,” Kelly says. “It’s such a joy to watch the kids’ faces light up when they see the story play out in real life.”

The Corleys prefer to take a late afternoon excursion so they can experience the sounds and smoke from the train during the daylight, and then, in the evening, they get to see the glowing Christmas lights and decorations on the return trip.

The family has dedicated a whole shelf in their home to train memorabilia. It’s filled with cocoa mugs, golden train tickets and more than 20 silver bells.

“We pick out new pajamas every year,” Carter says. “Me and Dad match, and Piper and Mom match.”

That’s an East Texas treasure worth believing in.

Shhh. Just listen.